st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
hdc = half double crochet
Supplies used:
3.7mm hook
4 different colors of acrylic, worsted weight medium #4 (Red Heart)
- dark brown for the hair
- black for the coat and shoes
- color of your choice for the pants
- brown for the skin. I used Red Heart Comfort, Mocha ~ color code 3191
sewing needle
yarn needle
optional * 20 gauge wire
4 to 8 pipe cleaners (# of pipe cleaners depends on the type you use and if you use wire)
fabric tac or tacky glue
nap raiser or steel pet brush
How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. For example 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.
Following order
- Introduction - important!
- head - including how to stuff
- neck - including how to stabilize
- body - including how to stuff and close up the opening of the front of the coat
- pants, legs, shoes and how to assemble and sew on
- arms and hands - including both fingered and fingerless hand
- how to paint the white stripes on - how to paint the skeleton on the gloves
- sew on the arms
- how to put the front strips on the coat
- make and sew on collar
- how to root in the hair - also how to cut and brush out
- how to add in button eyes - also how to do the face
- how to make and sew on ears
- final tips on how to style the hair
- goodbye followed by a short amigurumi film featuring Einstein
Head and Body worked in one piece:
*starting with whatever color you will use for the hair
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 40st (42)
9-18) 1sc in each st for 10 rows
19) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
21) 1sc then 2tog (18)
22) 1sc then 2tog (12)
*stop and stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe cleaners you will put in later.
23) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
24-27) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
28) 2sc in each st (18)
29) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)
30) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
31) 1sc in each st
32) 1sc in next 11st then 2sc in next st (26)
33-39) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
*now stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length of a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured. The 20 gauge wire is optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine. Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around the wire. Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier in the stuffing! This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in. Push the wire into the neck making sure you go far enough in so that the other end is level with row 39. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that sits inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later. Let the glue dry for a minute or two then continue onto row 40. I used pictures from another doll tutorial to explain some parts as we go along.
40-42) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
43) 1sc in each of the FLO
44) 1sc in each st
45) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 26 st * don't break free yet but pull out your last st so you won't lose it. You will now stuff and close up the body
By crocheting in the front loops for row 43 you created a ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you insert the color you will use for the pants.
1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher than the beginning so just join them with a sc
2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, if you can't crochet 2tog until the gap is completely closed just stop when you can't work the 2tog anymore and with a yarn needle and the yarn tail weave in and out of the remaining stitches then pull tight, knot off and hide yarn tail inside the body. Make sure to add in any stuffing the body needs before closing up the gap completely.
46) ch1 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (31)
47) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 28st (30)
48) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (33)
49) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 31st (32)
50) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (31)
51) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 29st (30)
52) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (30)
53) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (30)
f/o weave yarn tail in
Shoes: with black
1) ch9
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each ch (8) then continue around the other side and put 1sc in each of the outer loops (16) *make sure to add a marker in the last st you put in and move that marker at the end of every row
3) 2sc in next 3st, 1sc in next 10st then 2sc in next 3st (22)
4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)
5) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 14st then 2tog twice (18)
6) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog twice (14)
7) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 6st then 2tog twice (10)
sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for stuffing into the front of the shoe.
Legs: with skin color
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2-14) 1sc in each st for 13 rows
15) 2sc in each st (12)
16) 1sc in each
17) 1sc then 2tog (8) *fold a pipe cleaner in half, push the bend into the leg until it's at the very end of the leg. Roll up the 2 ends that are sticking out from the end of the leg and use it to stuff the ball (foot) see photo below
18) 2tog twice then f/o using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, weave in and out of the remaining stitches then pull tight to close up the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside leg.
Pants Rolled Up: with color you used to close up the body
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
*begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the leg in and also to sew the pants to the body.
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc in BLO
4-15) 1sc in each st for 12 rows
16) 1sc in the FLO
17-18) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in
Option #2 Pants Not Rolled Up: with color you used to close up the body
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
*begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the leg in and also to sew the pants to the body.
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc in BLO
4-19) 1sc in each st for 16 rows
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (15)
21) 1sc in each
sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in
Assembly of the legs:
If you made the pants that roll up; roll up the bottom of the pant to where the ridge is made from crocheting in the FLO on row 16. The pants should naturally stay rolled up at that ridge but you can add in a stitch to hold them in place if needed.
Push the ball of the leg into the shoe. It should sit in the shoe w/o stitches but you can put in a couple stitches if you think they are needed. Hide yarn tail inside foot.
Push the leg into the pant piece. Using the yarn tail from the pant, sew the top of the leg to the top of the pant.
Once you have both legs assembled, pin them in place on the body to assure the proper placement. Once you are happy with how they are positioned sew them in place.
*Sew the arms and the front strips of the coat in place after you paint on the skeleton hands and the stripes around the coat. You can use fabric paint but I just used regular white craft paint. Use a stiff craft brush. It will take between 2 and 3 coats of paint. Let the paint dry in between coats. Do not start at one end and paint around to meet up where you started because it will not join up evenly. Instead start the paint in the middle in 2 and work towards the back, having the 2 starting points meet up in the back. Refer to video if this part is confusing. After the paint is dry, go around with a small pair of scissors and cut off any fibers that are sticking up.
Arms: with the color used for the coat *I did not stuff the arms. You can lightly stuff them if desired
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
*begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the arm in place
2) 2sc in each (12)
3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)
12) 1sc in the FLO
13) 1sc in each st
sl st next st and f/o then weave in yarn tail to hide it
Gloves/Hands: with same color as coat
1) look inside the arm for the ridge that we created when we crocheted in the FLO, look for where it starts and where it ends (just like you did when you inserted yarn into the body to close it up) choose the 2nd loop from the beginning, pull the yarn through and ch1 (this ch1 counts as a stitch) now put in 1sc all the way around, making sure to crochet the last and first loop together. You should now have 15st
2) 1sc in each st (15)
3) 1sc in the next 4st then 2sc in next st (18) this is where we will go on and make the fingers. If you don't want to make fingers then continue to row 4
4) 1sc then 2tog (12)
5) 1sc then 2tog (8)
6) 2tog twice then f/o leaving a tail for sewing
weave in and out of those remaining st then pull to close the hole. Knot off and hide yarn tail in arm
Front Strips on Coat with coat color
start with a long yarn tail and leave a long yarn tail once you f/o for sewing. You can sew or glue these strips in. I found it faster and easier to glue them on.
strip one: chain about 25. The top of the chain goes in at the top of the coat just at the color change and the bottom of the chain will wrap under the coat.
strip two: chain about 13. The top will meet up where the coat opens up and the bottom will wrap under the coat.
*sew this part on after the arms and front strip have been sewn on
1) ch 31
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (30)
3) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
4) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin into place as pictured then sew around the bottom edge of the collar.
Ears: with skin color
2) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in each st
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Shape ears then pin in place. Make sure you are happy with the placements before sewing them in. The top of the ear sits just under the 4th row down from the color change on the head and the bottom of the ear sits just above the 8th row down from the color change.
Rooting, cutting and styling the hair:
Wrap a good size bundle of yarn loosely around your hand as pictured then cut through the middle at the bottom of the loops.
Root each strand of yarn in each st around every row starting at the color change on the head. Once you are done, turn doll upside down and cut the hair. Cutting the yarn this way gives the hair layers which works very well for this style. Don't cut too short! It's better to cut too little and have to cut again then to cut too much. The picture below titled, "The Haircut" is the length that works best.
Now you can brush the yarn out... brush, brush, brush then brush some more! You want the yarn to be completely frizzed out. Once it's all frizzed out then cut out little bits here and there to thin out the hair ~> See the video tutorial for this part as it is easier to show than explain in written form. When you are ready to style the hair I found it helped to dip my fingers in water then twist and wrap the hair into the style I wanted. It also helps to get a picture of Wybie and use it for reference as you style the hair.
Źródło: http://www.amigurumitogo.com/2014/02/amigurumi-wybie-doll-with-video-tutorial.html
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